Plumb Pudd'n Table runner
Posted by administrator on Tuesday, June 26th, 2012
You've always wanted to make one of those addorable table toppers but thought it was too hard,
Now's your chance to show everyone that you can do it!!!!!
I deigned this table runner patter for one of the many classes I teach. If you'd like me to email you a printer friendly version of this, email Debbie at firstname.lastname@example.org
We want to thank Riley Blake Designs for use of the beautiful fabric!
I used the Paris & Co line.
You will need the following measurements from the Paris & Co line, or another that you love;
Fudge; 5/8 yard
Cream Flower 3/8 yard
Blue Tile 1/2 yard
Brown Dot 1/4 yard
Blue Dot 1/2 yard
Blue Damask 3/8 Yard
Brown Damask 3/8 yard
1 1/2 yards for backing
Iron and ironing board
This table runner uses three different Nine Patch blocks, set on point, with Arbor Windows and 3 boarders.
Now don't worry!! This is going to be easy.
First: cut all the pieces for this runner, label each size as you go, this will make placement easier.
Fudge (1)5 x 5, (4)3 ½ square, (2)3 ½ x 1 ½ , (4)2 ¾ square, (5)2 3/8 square, (4)2 ¼ square, (8)1 ½ square (use in border), (4)2 ½ square
Blue Damask (4)3 1/2 square, (4)2 ¾ x 5, (1)3 ½ square, (4)2 3/8 square, (4)2 ¼ x 6
Blue Dots (16)2 5/8 square, (20)2 5/8 x 1 ½,
Cream Flower (28)2 5/8 square, (20)1 ½ square
Blue Tile (4)2 5/8 square, (16)2 5/8 x 1 ½
Blue Tile 3 strips 1 ½ inches wide
Brown Damask 3 strips 2 ½ inches wide
Brown Dot 4 strips 1 ½ inches wide
Second: Lay out the blocks.
This Nine patch -block uses:
Fudge, (4) 3 ½ square, (2) 3 ½ x 1 1/2
Blue Damask; (4) 3 ½ square, (1) 3 ½ x 1 ½
Lay out the pieces in the same order as shown in the picture.
I turn the center row over onto the left row, so that right sides are together.
Next, sew down the right side of each pair. Make sure you are using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Set your seam. This is a phrase you will hear a lot in the quilting world, this means to press the iron on the seam you just sewed. This will embed or “set” the sewing threads into the fabric and will hold your seam better, also allowing the block to “lay” better.
After you have set your seam you want to open the two pieces and starting on the light fabric press (don’t push) the seam toward the darker fabric.
Place the pieces back into their position in the block. (This will help you beginners keep track of where you are.)
Next, taking just the center of the block, turn the other fudge piece over on the top of the blue, right sides together, sew ¼ inch down the right side of the pair. Again, set the seam and press the seam toward the dark fabric.
- Set the seam and press the seam to the dark fabric for all of the blocks.
Attach the remaining pieces using the techniques described above.
You should now have three rows like this;
This next step is what shows a good quilter, (which of course you are!!)
Turn the top row over onto the second row, so that right sides are together, matching up your seams. You will notice that you have pressed the seams so that they go in opposite directions, if you feel the seams together, you can feel how they fit up against each other, this is called butting the seam. To get a good seam so that your corners match up, it is important to get this step right. Here is a trick I’ve learned while teaching.
Match your seams and then put a pin in, angling from one side of the seam across to the other side, like so;
Now to check, (before you sew, saving a lot of unpicking), turn back the edge at the seam, you should have a checkerboard look, your seams should be directly on top of each other.
After you have a little more piecing experience you might prefer to not use pins, but for beginners or those having trouble getting that perfect checkerboard this is a great technique! Even those piecing for the first time can have precision!!
Attach the third row.
To press the seams of this block, part of the seam will want to lay to the left and part to the right, which way do your press the seam? Both ways.
Notice the seam you just finished, (top to bottom) and the two intersecting seams, (side to side). If you unpick just a couple of threads here
This will allow you to press the seam to the side it wants to go, or both sides, as illustrated here.
These two top seams are pressed in, the middle ones are pressed out and the bottoom seams are pressed in.
Uneven Nine Patch;
Fudge: (4) 2 ¾ squares, (1) 5 inch square
Blue Damask: (4) 2 ¾ squares, (4) 5 x 2 ¾
Again, turn the center row over onto the top of the piece to the left, right sides together, sew ¼ inch seam down the right side of each pair. Set the seam and press the seam toward the dark fabric.
Attach the other pieces in the same manner.
Framed Nine Patch;
Fudge; (5) 2 5/16 square, (4) 2 ¼ square,
Blue Damask; (4) 2 5/16 Square, (4) 2 ¼ x 5 7/8
Use the 2 5/16 inch squares for the center 9
Use the 2 ¼ squares for the corners.
Start in the center of the block, sew the 2 5/16 squares into rows, then the rows into a block, as we’ve previously done.
Placing the nine patch into the center, add the remaining pieces to the block. Remember to check when you are sewing your rows together for the checkerboard look as you match up the seams.
Now that you have the center Nine patches done, we’ll move onto the Arbor windows.
Again, if you lay these out in the order they go in, it makes it easier to keep track of where pieces go.
Large Arbor window: Make 4 blocks
Each block will need
Blue Dot; (3) 2 5/8 Square, (3) 2 5/8 x 1 ½ ,
Blue Tile; (1) 2 5/8 square, (2) 2 5/8 x 1 ½
Cream flower; (5) 2 5/8 squares, (2) 1 ½ squares
Just as you have done in the previous blocks, sew the pieces into rows and the rows into the block.
Set the seams and press the seams. Alternate pressing the seams up for one row and then down for the next so that when you put the rows together the seams will butt up to each other.
Small Arbor window; Make 4 of these
You will need;
Blue dot; (1) 2 5/8 Square, (2) 2 5/8 x 1 ½,
Blue Tile; (2) 2 5/8 1 ½
Cream Flower; (2) 2 5/8 square, (3) 1 ½ square
Make these using the same steps as the Large Arbor window.
After you have made the Arbor window pieces they should look like this;
Taking a ruler, you are going to trim the points off the block. Line up the ruler along the corners of the blue dot fabric; now slide the ruler out, away from the blue dot fabric, ¼ inch. Double check to make sure the edge of the ruler is ¼ inch away from each corner, trim off points. Your blocks should now look like this.
Notice, I’ve cut ¼ inch away from the corners of the Blue Dot fabric.
You’re almost done! Now for the fun part.
Lay out your blocks like so:
The small Arbor windows go in the corners, the large ones between the Nine Patches.
Attach the blocks in rows (your rows will be at an angle).
Notice the corners on the Arbor windows are blunt, match them like this.
I suggest pinning the pieces together; this helps so that one block does not get stretch larger than the other block while sewing.
After you have the Arbor Windows attached, sew the rows together, butting up the seams.
Time to attach your boarders.
Lay out your runner on a large smooth surface, smooth out any wrinkles or tucks. Measure both short sides, taking the average of these sides, cut (2) pieces of the Blue Tile fabric, 1 ½ inch wide by the length you calculated. Now measure the long sides, again take an average (side 1 + side 2 divided by 2) Cut 2 strips of Blue Tile fabric, 1 ½ inch by the length you calculated.
Pin and sew the short lengths onto the short ends of your runner. (Always using a ¼ inch seam allowance) Attach the 1 ½ inch square of Fudge fabric (these are called Corner Stones) to each end of your long strips. Match up the seams and after pinning the borders into place, sew these on also.
Repeat these steps for the next two boarders.
The second boarder, Brown Damask, is cut 2 ½ inches wide, use the 2 ½ square Fudge squares.
The third boarder, Brown Dots, is cut 1 ½ inches wide, use the 1 ½ inch square Fudge squares.
As your runner gets longer you will notice that your fabric is not long enough to reach from end to end. You will need to sew two border strips together.
I like to use a miter seam, to do this, lay one strip of fabric o n your cutting mat, place another strip, horizontal, right sides together, leaving a little of the end showing on each. Draw a line at the 45 degree angle, corner to corner. Sew on the line. (I like to sew this first before I cut so that I can check to make sure it looks good). Cut the extra fabric off and press your seam open.
This gives you a nice seam that is hard to spot.
Hurray!! Your top is now complete.
Take this to your favorite long arm quilter to quilt.
Or if you would prefer, you can layer, first the quilt top (right side up), then the back (right side down), then a piece of cotton batting, sew around the edges, leaving a small area open. Turn the runner right sides out. Finish off the opening and tie or stich in the ditch to give your table runner more stability.
I hope you enjoy your table runner!!
Thanks to Riley Blake for letting me share my designs.
Feel free to visit us at www.cuteandcozyquilts.com We would love any comments you might have about our Plumb Pudd’n Table runner.